La Paz, Bolivia

Well we did not think we would like La Paz, however we do! It is a crazy beautiful city shaped like a bowl. The lower basin is the downtown and it is surrounded by houses and structures clinging to the hills. The Cordillera Real are all around us and i am already planning a return trip with my buddies to climb some of these 6000m+ peaks.

We decided to stay here a bit longer and downhill bike the worlds most dangerous road on saturday. We are staying in a high class hotel that Em found that tops out at $55 a night for the suite! It happens to be really close to the Sooccer stadium, so we have attended two games already! Em loves Futbol now, well maybe not but she is a good support so i do not have to go alone. The fans are nuts and it is really fun to watch!

Lake Titicaca and Isle Del Sol, Bolivia

A beautiful island in lake Titicaca, Island of the sun. We did a day trip to the island, and walked the ridge trail. It felt good to hike and the island was very dry admidst this massive lake that looks like the ocean. It was relentless however how much they try to tax you to use everything, left a bit of a sour taste in this great place.

Bolivia!

Our 5th day on the bus today brought us to the border of Bolivia and into the town of copacabana. We were both a bit worried about the border crossing, but as soon as we flashed $100 each, we were in! The Peru-Bolivian border here strandles the huge lake Titicaca (go ahead laugh Beavis and Butthead). The altitude here is right at 12000 feet, so it may look tropical but it is certainly fleece weather. Check out the foosball setup right on the beach!

We are happy to be on new frontiers and Em has booked us into a great little place above town! Our corner room will help us unwind from our past week. Then onto La Paz. Congratulations Joe and Haley Married Yesterday!!!!

All over the map Cusco-Arequipa-Cabanaconde, Peru

As you can see Jesus is watching over us, good thing because it has been quite a week! I indulged in the local custom of Cuy, aka; Guinea pig! It was not very meaty and it tasted of dry turkey, however the head and legs were the daunting part. I managed to slice, dice and consume the loveable household pet. We ended our time in Cusco riding horses in the hills, stopping at a few Incan ruins in the area. Em loves Horses as captured by this pic, love her smile!

We then chased what we thought would be a very cool adventure, starting on our first night bus...it was a prelude to a ton of effort for very little reward. Arequipa in the south of Peru is busy, dirty and crowded. The main Plaza is nice, and our hostal was a great refuge. We did however get to visit a frozen Incan Girl found high upon a mountain 15 years ago, funny how she did somehow acheive eternal life...as long as the power to her freezer does not go out (sorry no pics allowed).

We then took a gruelling 6 hour bus trip, loaded with people standing, and the stench was something else. Not to mention the road was not paved...all in a quest for a canyon deeper than Arizonas Grand...I call Bologna. It was kinda cool but nothing like the grand canyon, so we hiked along the edge for awhile in the blistering sun, tired and dusty.

And what goes out must come back, repeat bus ride. Yikes we are wiped from merely chasing, and we both are the first to admit we could have done without that trip!

Yesterday, our 4th straight day in some sort of bus brought us to the end of Peru. Not feeling very social we retire very early to watch our bootleg sex in the city movie. We are both ready for a new country!

MACHU PICCHU!!!!!

INCREDIBLE! After one of the shortest-longest nights of our lives we awake at 4:30 am to catch the first bus to Machu Picchu! Arriving before daylight we feel our way into this magical place. The dull morning light feels calm and pure. A warm spiritual sense washes our thoughts at our fist glimpse of Machu Picchu. We spend the next 2 hours in the morning glow exploring the labyrinth of the planets most amazing architecture, by ourselves.

The massively steep mountain jungle capture the green and abundant terraces, framed and bisected by stacked gray granite rock, into the vibrant feeling of being ALIVE! Then Comes the SUN.

A grand spectacle reveals the mass and the soul of the layout. I would love to see this place bustling with life (other than camera carrying pasties) the energy had to be phenomonal. After a short breakfast break we head directly to Huayna Picchu the mountain that towers in the background. After a steep, stair riddled hike we reach the top of the peak. There is also ruins that hang from the flanks of this sheer peak.

After taking in the surroundings we continue down to the great caverns along the backside of the pueblo. A long and often sketchy descent we arrive to some jungle caverns, the Incans must have been sure footed, strong, stocky, patient and many.

The amount of work and energy it had to of taken to buld what we have seen these past few days...incomprehensible.

After a three hour hike we have returned to the main Ruins. It is nearly noon now and the place is packed with what we knew was inevitable, Tourists by the hundreds. We quickly dart through the pueblo as if we lived there for years to the vista overlook. It is such a shame the bearded Spanish conquered the Incans, the world would be a better place with them still around. They were forward and intelligent thinkers. They also chose pure life, living and working in such great environments.

We get our token pics and weave the flooding tour groups to the exit. We are flat worn out, content and in awe. The Peruvian government has really done well with Machu Picchu, it is clean and well kept. You have to pay for everything here. Even the bathroom¿ they have that kind of power because you are truly at their mercy.

We meander down, stopping at a great museum and relaxing by the urabamba river. Back to Aguas Calientes to catch the train back to Cusco. A long slow slog, with a few catnaps. Whew what a day!

Happy fathers Day! We love you Dad´s.

The Sacred Valley Peru

From Cusco (the navel of the Incan World) there are many different Incan Ruins. We awoke early on thursday and began exploring the sacred valley. First stop Pisac, a great example of the many terraces built for farming. An immense area of terraces, barrios (neighborhoods) and temples. The Incans grew so strong due to their ability to distribute water and terrace steep mountains for farming. We baked in the sun as we explored our first taste of Incan life.

On down valley through Urubamba to Ollantaytambo. Another small gem of a village with ruins towering high above. These ruins are famous for the massive rocks that were somehow transported to the top of the mountain to form a temple. All these ruins are pinched among massive peaks and deeply carved valleys.

The blessing in all of our travels are the funky, hip tranquil places we stumble upon. This place had awesome food and no tourists, whew, breathe.

Finally ending our grand day boarding the Perurail train to Aguas Calientes (the overpricedand uber-touristy) gateway to Machu Picchu.

Lima and Cusco

We finished our time in Lima, cloudy all days except saturday. A busy city center but amazing architecture. We had our first SA flight on Tuesday flying to Cusco. A quick one hour flight over mountains that blew my mind! Arriving in Cusco we were met by many "guides" and others that will gladly help us for no money but doop us in the end. Finding our way to a great secluded hostal we relax. Off to explore the city we decide first thing is figure out our trip to Machu Picchu! We figured out a great route using trains buses and feet! Tomorrow we set off to do just that! Cusco is very hip and funky, in fact some of you my have been here. Obviosly tourist driven but not that bad. We are currently missing the big Clingman fmily reunion in the ozarks, but feel that Machu Picchu is a trade off. Next post MP pics!!!

Lima, Miraflores Peru

We are done with the north coast now, enjoying Trujillo and Chan chan ruins. We have made it south to Lima arriving late friday evening. We had an awesome bus ride on a great company Cruz del Sur (cruise the coast) it was a crazy site, i have never seen so much sand. A friday traffic taxi to Miraflores and by the looks of things it was going to be a busy friday night. We found a place right off the plaza and close to a STARBUCKS. We went out for pizza and a walk in the plaza. Our seemingly great location meant a very noisy night, it was the first time i have slept with earplugs? I awoke early to the noise and went down and got us starbucks, which was a nice taste of home! Miraflores is a really nice area with a ton of tourists, a wonderful plaza and lots of activity. We walked along the coastal overlook where we found quite a few parks (Parque de amor, oooh lala) and a very clean area. We walked all over town and found our way to a movie theatre and saw What happens in vegas (very funny). We also ate at Chilis! Overall it was a very U.S. day, so good sometimes to have things from home. Today we moved to a quieter hostal and went and met or friend Yolandas family. We had a great afternoon with them, talking and eating. Very good Spanishpractice and they are Truly a great family! Tuesday we fly to Cusco.

Northern Peru

Well we did not want to leave Mancora, it was overall a nice place to relax and be by the ocean! However we packed up and took a sketchy bus to Piura, lessons learned there. One night in dirty, busy Puira (despite the city we did see Indiana Jones at a nice cinema all inclusive popcorn and tickets $ 11) we travelled further south to Chiclayo. A nice Hostal (a mix between hostal and hotel and our average is 2 star) we joined the sunday crowd at the insane markets, what a crazy way to shop? Monday we sorted out laundry and tuesdays tours. Yesterday we went to 2 museums and one archeological site. This area houses ruins from the pre inca SIcans and Sipans. They were gold crazy and it was quite interesting to see what they thought was a good way to bury there rulers. Sican was buried upside down with his head cut off? They amazing part however is the amount of time the archeologists spend recreating and displaying the burial garb. Amazingly intricate jewelry, masks, weapons etc. Sorry no pics in the museums. The pyramids had turned into eroding piles of mud and rock, i guess when we hear of el Ñino they get it bad here!

Peru has its ups and downs, and i have never seen so many shady mini taxis in my life. We both love to watch the major intersections that have no signage, lights or control, every car for himself. Fun to watch but scary to cross! Also the hairles dogs are quite interesting.

Em is not feeling so great this morning so we will slowly continue to Trujillo from here. Bypassing Cayamarca (sorry Yolanda, too much bus time) and then heading down to LIma for the weekend.